Bikaner and Deshnoke

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A number of members of our party, including our wonderful tour guide Margriet (with the red hair, second from the right), getting off the overnight train in the morning. Train station, Bikaner.
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A mixture of cars and military vehicles in the parking lot. It turned out our train was carrying a large military contingent (something we had not known the previous night). As a result, it skipped a number of stops in the middle of the night (!) and got in ahead of schedule.
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A few of soldiers in the foreground, along with the walk-way over the train tracks, and one last picture of our train. Bikaner.
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The streets -- yes, this really is a street, cracks and dirt heaps and puddles and all -- were quite deserted at this hour of the morning. In our bus again, near Bikaner.
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Mom and Dad (posed, obviously) in the garden of our first "palace" hotel, the Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner. The garlands, which came in various forms, were a frequent treat on arrival. These were made of strung marigolds, and we often wondered where they grew enough of those to make all the garlands they must give away!
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This is a view of one of the interior walls facing the central court-yard in our hotel. Henni (from Veldhoven) is looking down from the top of the wall, which may have been the balcony for the upstairs rooms. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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There was a small temple inside the courtyard. I didn't want to be sacrilegious by taking a photo of the idol or statue inside, so I'm not quite sure who this temple was devoted to. It was one of the deities typically portrayed in black stone rather than in white marble -- maybe Vishnu or Kali? Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Feral dogs abound in India, but only on a few occasions did we see cats, and every time I can recall, it was in a palace of some sort, including in this case the hotel we were staying in. Guess that reinforces a stereotype about cats, huh? Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Parrots were also common in the hotels where we stayed. Look for them here on the small ledge halfway down the left wall. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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I wasn't quite sure what the fruit on this tree was, but it was pretty. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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I loved how the flowers complemented the leaves and the red sandstone in the background. This is winter? Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Extra: Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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A picture of Hotel Bhairon Vilas itself -- this is one of the sides of the main courtyard; breakfast was served in front of the arches, and my parents' room was actually the door in the middle of the center arch -- extending out to both sides. Bikaner.
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The view of Junagarh Fort from my own balcony -- just a ten minute walk away. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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A different view of the courtyard, now from my second-story balcony. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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A view from the roof top of Hotel Bhairon Vilas, out across the city and toward some other cupola-ed building in the background. Bikaner.
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An even better (if hazy) view of Junagarh Fort from the rooftop. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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We always seemed to be booked in double rooms, but there were no other single men in the group, so I wound up with my choice of two beds. Many people found the beds here painfully hard, though mine did not bother me. Of course since every room was unique, I may have just had good mattress luck.
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The sheets were colorfully tie-died. Apparently the owner of the place is an aging hippie, and I think I even heard a rumor that he had been part of the Beatles circle when they were in India. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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The view from between the beds out the door, to give some sense of perspective of the room. Also interesting to note are the built-in mirrors and the fact that all the walls are 18" thick sandstone! Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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I also had an odd extra room with no apparent purpose, but it had a lovely window view out onto the gardens in the outer courtyard. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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And, of course, there were lots of hand-made Indian carpets. Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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These tapestries with small mirrors sewn in are typical Rajasthani art. Also interesting is the staircase leading to a tiny door, which was just marginally chained. (It turns out this led to the roof, from where some of my photos were taken!) Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Madeleine, Guido, and Barbara in front of our tour bus. (Alex and Cora in the background.) Bikaner, near Hotel Bhairon Vilas.
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Our first trip in the morning was to take the tour bus out from Bikaner to nearby Deshnoke, to visit the Karni Mata temple. Here you can already see that we're on the edge of the desert.
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Around here, camels are common and serve an important role in transporting goods and (to a lesser extent) people.
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Even though this looks pretty barren, we drove through far more sparse areas later on.
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The desert goes on and on...
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The desert goes on and on. Here it really starts to look like what we concieve of as desert. Outside Bikaner.
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We came to a full stop -- a get out of the bus, wander around and take photos stop -- because we had arrived at a train crossing and the gates were down. This one was pretty quick -- we heard that at times, the wait can be half an hour or more, for a very long, slow-moving train. In the foreground is a cart brought out by a guy who apparently makes his living from selling to people stuck at the grade crossing. Also note the colorfully decorated and (in the back) ridiculously overloaded trucks. Between Bikaner and Deshnoke.
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These trees, with their nasty thorns, appear to be an essential part of survival in this part of the world. They were referred to a Mimosa, but are probably Prosopis cineraria. Purdue University's Horticulture Department talks about how this plant saved many people from famine in 1988 and 1939.

It is used for food (a couple of times we had a local dish called Kher Sangri which is made from the pods), for animal fodder, and for firewood. During the winter season that we were there, the trees were frequently stripped back so that only the trunk and a few branches at the top remained, presumably to generate new growth when the weather warms and the rains come.

I became acutely aware of things like this during my trip, as one of my constant companions was Jared Diamond's recent book Collapse.
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Finally, the train arrives.
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Another brown train, on narrow gauge rails. In a somewhat self-referential twist, this train is carrying... more rails.
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Part of the train is carrying nothing at all -- maybe it left its cargo somewhere along the way? Maybe I was just trying to get a photo of the plant!
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Finally, we have arrived at Karni Mata, also known as the "Rat Temple." You'll see why in a moment. I thought the flag and trident were interesting. Deshnoke.
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Again, the carvings on the building were incredibly ornate. I don't know if the birds overhead are birds of prey, but if so, they are probably drooling.
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More details of the ornate carvings. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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More details of the ornate carvings. Our tour guide, Margriet, can just be seen on the left-hand side. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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The "Rat Temple" in Deshnoke near Bikaner is probably its most famous attraction. The rats are believed to be the reincarnated spirits of the devotees of the particular saint who built this temple. They run around all over inside, although concerns about stepping on them (for which one is expected to make a sizeable donation in apology) were seriously overblown. Although relatively tame, they are still shy and tend to stick close to the food and hide in dark corners.
You do have to go through the temple in socks or bare feet, but even my mom, who was quite apprehensive at first, enjoyed the visit in the end.
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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This baby rat is so cute!
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Rats snoozing?
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Toss out a little bit of food and they come from all over.
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... including all over each other.
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Are you sure your tail is enough to balance that whole slice of orange? Don't fall down!
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The rat mess hall. Emphasis on the mess.
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To keep the little guys safe (after all, they might be your grandparents reincarnated) there is a wire net over the whole temple to keep out the hawks and others who might otherwise think it was their own mess hall.
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The smaller birds, however, find a way in and get their own share of the food.
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I guess this rat figured that if it was going to be worshipped, it ought to have its own pedestal. Either that, or it was the first to find something yummy left there! Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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The pigeons, not being quite as smart as rats, thought standing on top made more sense. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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As Om above, so Om below. My Dad is standing under the giant Om symbol wearing a shirt covered with tiny Om symbols. If you don't want to take my word for it, you'll probably have to download the full size image. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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I'm not sure what I like best here -- the delicate carved leaves on the left, the lifelike (in both detail and color) elephants on the right, or the tiny row of nose-to-tail rats running up the middle! Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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This family shows a bit of the east-west culture clash that occurs in India -- the two women may well be sisters, but one is wearing a traditional sari while the other is in jeans and a denim jacket. Outside Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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And now we trek back across the desert to return to Bikaner. You might notice the painted stripes on the trees -- white-orange-white. These are used to help make the trees more obvious to drivers at night... so they don't drive into them.
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It was hard to get good photos from inside the bus, but there were many interesting shots to be captured, like this cow-drawn-cart. The expanse of the city of Bikaner can be seen just below the horizon.
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Arriving at Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Barb, Alex, Guido, and Madeleine, arriving at Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This wall shows the handprints of a number of women. Historically (and tragiclly continuing into present times) widowed women in India fall into terrible circumstances. They are rarely able to remarry, because it is thought that they will transfer the bad luck to their new husband and he will die young as well. From this and perhaps other beliefs developed the practice of sati, or the suicide of the widow (including sometimes self immolation on the husband's funeral pyre).

The handprints in this photo were made by actual women with some kind of dye on their hands, before they went off to die. Later, in commemoration of the women who died (probably after the practice was banned) someone came in and carved away the stone around the handprints, to leave a permanent record of the tragedy.
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Entering one of the gates ("fateh") into Junagarh Fort. My mom (in the back) of course had to stop and comment on the name of the gate, since it contained one of her favorite words: "Prole." (She got this from de Toqueville. Long story.) Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I don't know if these elephants were exactly life sized, but pretty close. Ironically, they're being used as decorations right outside a gate designed to stop an invasion by elephant. In these gates, the doors have rows of giant spikes (maybe 8-12 inches long and half an inch to an inch wide at the base) right at the elephant's head height to keep them from pushing the doors in. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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A close up of the elephant statue. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These forts have layer upon layer. At this point, we have already gone through two or three gates, but we're still in an "outer" courtyard. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These places are so unbelievably massive! Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The sandstone in different places varies dramatically in color. Here it is tending toward yellow-brown, compared to the red-brown of the Red Fort. More amazing, intricate carving. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here I was impressed by all the carved "screens" -- thin sheets of sandstone with beautiful patterns of holes carved to make it possible to see through. Oddly, while individual sections appeared to be symmetric (like the staircases at the bottom), the overall structure was not.
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Another beautiful carved screen. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Our tour guide (on the left) along with Margriet, Gé, and other tour group members. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This was part of a cleverly designed ramp. The ridges would help get traction (for people, or horses, or elephants) going up or down the ramp, but the cuts in the bottoms of the V's would allow water to flow down the ramp and not remain standing in pools behind the ridges. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the ruler's viewing balcony over one of the main court-yards of the fort. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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A lovely ornate brass or copper door. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the court swimming pool. It has an intersting story to go with it. Tradition prohibits the women from being seen by men -- but they still wanted to be able to swim. To accomodate this, there were rings in the ground and along the walls that allowed a giant canopy to be raised over the pool, giving the women privacy while they bathed.
Above, in the background, you can see another set of screens which were used to allow the women, unseen, to view what was happening in the courtyard, which might have included shows of various sorts. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here is the same swimming pool seen from above... just the view that would have been prevented by the ladies' tent.
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This particular ornamentation was made from Delft blue porcelain, which was uniquely amusing to the Dutch members of our tour group.
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The greenish colored screens (bamboo?) in the arches were apparently used to provide privacy for the emperor when he viewed the events in the courtyard. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The ceilings here were ornately painted... and part of the paint was actual gold. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Picture of the emperor's throne. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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More of the ornate gilded ceilings. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is a solid silver door that once adorned the palace. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Of course, if you're going to have a solid silver door these days, you have to have something secure to put it in. This seems ironic somehow. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Many of the other doors were just as elaborate and beautiful. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The detailed inlay work of the floors was equally beautiful. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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And even when not gilded, one can't forget the ceilings! Note the detailed border of painted scenery. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here, I am trying to capture both the colors of the wall and the lovely peacock-shaped sitar (or related instrument) in the glass case below. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even in places that were not technically armories, there were often antique swords, scabbards, shields, and so forth on display. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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There were a large number of detailed laquer-painted doors and windows, each with a unique design and artistry. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This colorful piece was actually a wall which contained a long brass strip across the middle. In the middle of the brass strip, a very fine cut allowed water to be sprayed through and come out as a mist, used for cooling and also (if I correctly understood our tour guide) as "special effects" for productions that were done within the adjacent courtyard. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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If the Greeks have their Ionic and Doric columns, are these perhaps "Elephantic", or maybe "Elephantine"? The theme of elephants at the top of columns, holding up the ceiling, was certainly quite common. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another collection of swords on display. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can get some sense of the quality of light that comes through one of the carved screens, as well as seeing the ornate geometries of the screen itself. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the only authentic "bed of nails" I saw in India. It looks extremely uncomfortable. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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It's impossible for a picture to give a good sense of how very high we were, at the top of the fort, but this is an attempt. It's also interesting to see that even the rain downspouts are made of carved sandstone. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even if you can't judge how high we are, you have to admit that it gives you an expansive view of the surrounding land. Keeping in mind, of course, that the crenelated wall in the far background is the opposite wall of the fort, and all the manicured grounds in the middle are within the fort! Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another view of the fort grounds, continuing to the right of the previous photo. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another view of the fort grounds, continuing still further to the right of the previous photo, and showing what struck me as an interesting building and pool. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even within the part of the fort we visited, sone sections seemed to continue on as far as the eye could see. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This odd little splash of color, one of the highest parts of the fort, turned out to be a small temple, but we wouldn't get to it for some time. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This was a sort of rocking chair or swing for the emperor. I suspect it is gold plated, though I don't know that for sure. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Notice the small figures going up the sides of the frame. These are connected to the pivot in such a way that they dance as the seat swings back and forth. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This struck me as a particularly nice "screen," because of the sunlight shining through the stained glass. (Most screens were open, and had no glass at all.) You can also see the gardens far below through the open center. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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It seemed like every wall had its own unique and beautiful ornamentation -- carving, inlay, painting...
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Guido, Madeleine, and Alex enjoying a break inside the Junagarh Fort in Bikaner.
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At this point, we're up three or four stories above the main courtyard, and this light-colored tower rises still higher. Can you imagine being the crew who had to do the external mural paintings three hundred years ago? Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another high tower at the top of Junagarh Fort. One would have quite a commanding view of the countryside from here!
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This provides a bit of perspective on the size of the fort, and also nicely shows off the gardens below. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can see a bit more of the inside of the fort from a similar perspective.
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This was about the highest part of the fort that we visited. This room had more colorful stained-glass screens, in addition to a probably-not-period bed and an inexplicable ceiling decoration.
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Here's a better shot of the ceiling and the afore-mentioned decoration.
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We couldn't quite agree on whether the screen here was to keep pigeons from landing in the courtyard below, or to act as some sort of safety device. Given the relative precautions I later saw with animals and humans, I'm now leaning toward the pigeon explanation.
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Mom and Guido on top of Junagarh Fort, with a view out over Bikaner.
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One of the interior courtyards in Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another decoratively painted wall, but note the embedded mirrors. These were often installed to reflect the light of the candles or lamps to make the whole room brighter. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I thought this was a particularly nicely painted ceiling. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can see the entire ceiling, which unfortunately I couldn't capture in the straight-on shot. There are more built-in mirrors reflecting off the far back wall.
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Here's a nice collection of spears in the armory. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Most of these (besides the one tomahawk-like weapon) are Katar dagger blades. Here and there, one would find a dagger that looked similar to these, but with an internal mechanical apparatus that would cause the blade to spring apart along the middle when the two bars of the handle were squeezed together. (I don't think there are any in this collection.) I was told the basic move was stab, squeeze, twist. I leave further details (entrails?) to your imagination. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These swords don't look like they need to spring apart to do plenty of damage.
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I was quite fond of how these shields, already quite appealing in their individual decoration, were artistically arranged on the wall. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Likewise, here is a mandala of daggers and (apparently) powder horns.
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I don't think these fans were quite original equipment in the Fort, but they looks like they could be pretty close. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I'm sure the guide had just told us something interesting about the architecture of the ceiling. Let this picture serve as an explanation for why I'm not including every photo I took... Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I suspect it was something about the confluence of different architectural styles.
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This whole throne is carved out of sandalwood for the emperor. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Bows and arrows and crossbow bolts, oh my! (Does anyone actually ever get shot at with fleur-de-lis and crescent-moon shaped arrows???) Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here were swords of every shape I could imagine, and at least one I couldn't. I've heard of two handed swords before, but never one where the hands needed to be on two different soldiers.
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Here is another mandala -- shield and Katar daggers. I believe this armory had by far the most creative displays of weaponry that we saw in India. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This armory also had types of weapons I didn't see anywhere else in India, such as these maces. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Suit of chain mail in the Junagarth Fort museum.
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Other armor parts including bracers, chest plate, and helmet from 16th century (?) Indian armor.
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An older an more ornamental suit of armor. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Indian military dress uniforms from ~late 19th century. Junagarth Fort museum.
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A maharaja's fancy carved chair. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Caricature of the participants in the 1930-31 Indian Round-Table Conference. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Life-sized, realistic looking leopard statues, and a decorated throne. Junagarth Fort museum.
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One of a very small number of remaining World War One Sopwith Camel airplanes (think Snoopy and the Red Baron). The Junagarth Fort museum says there are only two, but the web estimates more like seven.
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A highly decorated palanquin. Junagarth Fort museum.
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A side view of the Sopwith Camel. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Another palanquin, this one behind bars because it is painted with real gold. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Solid silver (?) ornamentation on one of the palanquins. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Solid silver (?) statue in Junagarth Fort museum. With the patina and the lighting, it looks more like jade, but the little signs assured me it was in fact silver.
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While we were sitting down to lunch in the outdoor restaurant at Junagarth Fort museum, we noticed a rather striking bird of prey above. There was also a cat prowling around below, and I'm not sure which one was planning on having the other for lunch.
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A different outlook for our bird of prey. Restaurant at Junagarth Fort museum.
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A closer view of auto-rickshaw, also known as a took-took or Indian helicopter. This one, in particular, belonged to the driver/tour-guide who took us all around Bikaner the afternoon of Jan 28th.
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This was one of the first of many Havelis that we saw -- this one on some side street in Bikaner that we visited as part of a fast-paced, full afternoon auto-rickshaw tour. The haveli is a particular style of residence built for well-to-do families, and often characterized by finely detailed sandstone carving as seen here.
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More Haveli carving details. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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This is another haveli just around the corner from the first. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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In some places, including Bikaner, the elegant havelis were in neighborhoods that otherwise looked rather unkempt... or in this case, nearly uninhabited.
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Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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In towns, one sometimes just couldn't find an angle to get a picture without capturing all the power lines overhead. But then, they may be interesting in and of themselves. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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It turned out that one of the attractions our tour guides thought particularly fine was the old automobile museum. It was an interesting sight (mom being particularly fond of the snake crawing up the fender), but not necessarily what I came to India to see.
However, it was rather entertaining that our tour guide (completely unaffiliated with the museum) tried to convince us to get into the car so he could take our picture in it. No "do not touch" signs here, apparently.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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We stopped for a short while at another hotel, which, like ours, was an old haveli that had been cleaned and polished and electrified. Unlike ours, it was right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the town. I'm not sure if these chairs are actually gilded, or just look that way. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another view of the "competing" hotel, especially showing off the marble floor and the ornate carving around the doors. Cora and Caroline are in the background checking out the courtyard. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Of course, then I had to take a picture of the courtyard myself. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another, brighter hallway. I thought the carved eagle was particularly nice. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Dog on cow. Doggone cow? Something like that. They both wander the streets, but more than once we saw them teaming up in this fashion. Luckily for the dogs, we never saw the converse. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Being a fan of hot peppers, I had to get a picture of these giant bags of delicious pain. Shops like this, with phenomenal quantities of bulk spices, were actually quite common. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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The Bhandashah Jain Temple in Bikaner is its oldest building or monument. This is especially interesting because we were told that the foundations were laid using butter rather than water in the making of the concrete. The place apparently oozes when it gets hot out, but obviously this doesn't impact its structural integrity.
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This is a photo out over the city of Bikaner from the Jain Temple.
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My parents are entering the Jain Temple. The colors are striking; I'm not certain whether they are inlay or painted. Bikaner.
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... but the outside decorations are nothing next to the ones inside! Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Although we saw many temples (Jain, Hindu, and others), these are still particularly striking examples of the full-color statuary. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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I particularly liked this pattern in the marble floor of the Jain Temple in Bikaner.
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The intricacies of some of the scenes were quite amazing. I wish now that I cuold have had the time to find out the story behind each one. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Other parts of the temple were as striking in their monochrome intricacies. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Most Jain Temples are filled with statues, which as far as I can tell are representations of the Tirthankaras or Jivas. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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View over Bikaner from the Jain Temple.
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Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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View over Bikaner from the Jain Temple. Apparently one of the buildings we are looking at is a cow hospital, but don't ask me which one!
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This young man was our tour guide -- not only did he drive us around the whole town in his took-took, but he went into the temple and other places with us to explain the history and show us points of particular interest. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Fresh vegetables in the marketplace. We believe the long skinny vegetables front and center are carrots -- pink carrots. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another image of the marketplace, showing off peppers ("mirchi"), cauliflower ("gobi"), and carrots ("gajar") in the foreground. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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On the street in Bikaner, returning to our hotel. Auto-rickshaw tour.
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This was part of a series of attempts to capture a bat flying around against the sunset. I never got a great picture of the bat, but the sky colors are great! Back at our hotel, Bhairon Vilas, in Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.