It is used for food (a couple of times we had a local dish called Kher Sangri which is made from the pods), for animal fodder, and for firewood. During the winter season that we were there, the trees were frequently stripped back so that only the trunk and a few branches at the top remained, presumably to generate new growth when the weather warms and the rains come.
I became acutely aware of things like this during my trip, as one of my constant companions was Jared Diamond's recent book
Collapse.
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Finally, the train arrives.
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Another brown train, on narrow gauge rails. In a somewhat
self-referential twist, this train is carrying... more rails.
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Part of the train is carrying nothing at all -- maybe it left its
cargo somewhere along the way? Maybe I was just trying to get a photo
of the plant!
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Finally, we have arrived at Karni Mata, also known as the "Rat
Temple." You'll see why in a moment. I thought the flag and trident
were interesting.
Deshnoke.
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Again, the carvings on the building were incredibly ornate. I don't
know if the birds overhead are birds of prey, but if so, they are
probably drooling.
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More details of the ornate carvings. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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More details of the ornate carvings. Our tour guide, Margriet, can
just be seen on the left-hand side. Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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The "Rat Temple" in Deshnoke near Bikaner is probably its most famous
attraction. The rats are believed to be the reincarnated spirits of
the devotees of the particular saint who built this temple. They run
around all over inside, although concerns about stepping on them (for
which one is expected to make a sizeable donation in apology) were
seriously overblown. Although relatively tame, they are still shy and
tend to stick close to the food and hide in dark corners.
You do have to go through the temple in socks or bare feet, but even
my mom, who was quite apprehensive at first, enjoyed the visit in the
end.
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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This baby rat is so cute!
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Rats snoozing?
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Toss out a little bit of food and they come from all over.
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... including all over each other.
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Are you sure your tail is enough to balance that whole slice of
orange? Don't fall down!
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The rat mess hall. Emphasis on the mess.
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To keep the little guys safe (after all, they might be your
grandparents reincarnated) there is a wire net over the whole temple
to keep out the hawks and others who might otherwise think it was
their own mess hall.
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The smaller birds, however, find a way in and get their own share of the food.
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I guess this rat figured that if it was going to be worshipped, it
ought to have its own pedestal. Either that, or it was the first to
find something yummy left there!
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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The pigeons, not being quite as smart as rats, thought standing on top
made more sense.
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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As Om above, so Om below. My Dad is standing under the giant Om
symbol wearing a shirt covered with tiny Om symbols. If you don't want to
take my word for it, you'll probably have to download the full size image.
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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I'm not sure what I like best here -- the delicate carved leaves on
the left, the lifelike (in both detail and color) elephants on the
right, or the tiny row of nose-to-tail rats running up the middle!
Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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This family shows a bit of the east-west culture clash that occurs in
India -- the two women may well be sisters, but one is wearing a
traditional sari while the other is in jeans and a denim jacket.
Outside Karni Mata temple, Deshnoke.
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And now we trek back across the desert to return to Bikaner. You
might notice the painted stripes on the trees -- white-orange-white.
These are used to help make the trees more obvious to drivers at
night... so they don't drive into them.
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It was hard to get good photos from inside the bus, but there were
many interesting shots to be captured, like this cow-drawn-cart. The
expanse of the city of Bikaner can be seen just below the horizon.
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Arriving at Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Barb, Alex, Guido, and Madeleine, arriving at Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This wall shows the handprints of a number of women. Historically
(and tragiclly continuing into present times) widowed women in India
fall into terrible circumstances. They are rarely able to remarry,
because it is thought that they will transfer the bad luck to their
new husband and he will die young as well. From this and perhaps
other beliefs developed the practice of
sati, or the suicide of the widow (including sometimes self
immolation on the husband's funeral pyre).
The handprints in this photo were made by actual women with some
kind of dye on their hands, before they went off to die. Later, in
commemoration of the women who died (probably after the practice was
banned) someone came in and carved away the stone around the
handprints, to leave a permanent record of the tragedy.
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Entering one of the gates ("fateh") into Junagarh Fort. My mom (in
the back) of course had to stop and comment on the name of the gate,
since it contained one of her favorite words: "Prole." (She got this
from de Toqueville. Long story.)
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I don't know if these elephants were exactly life sized, but pretty
close. Ironically, they're being used as decorations right outside a
gate designed to stop an invasion by elephant. In these gates, the
doors have rows of giant spikes (maybe 8-12 inches long and half an
inch to an inch wide at the base) right at the elephant's head height
to keep them from pushing the doors in.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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A close up of the elephant statue.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These forts have layer upon layer. At this point, we have already
gone through two or three gates, but we're still in an "outer"
courtyard. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These places are so unbelievably massive!
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The sandstone in different places varies dramatically in color. Here
it is tending toward yellow-brown, compared to the red-brown of the
Red Fort. More amazing, intricate carving.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here I was impressed by all the carved "screens" -- thin sheets of
sandstone with beautiful patterns of holes carved to make it possible
to see through. Oddly, while individual sections appeared to be
symmetric (like the staircases at the bottom), the overall structure
was not.
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Another beautiful carved screen.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Our tour guide (on the left) along with Margriet, Gé, and other tour
group members. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This was part of a cleverly designed ramp. The ridges would help get
traction (for people, or horses, or elephants) going up or down the
ramp, but the cuts in the bottoms of the V's would allow water to flow
down the ramp and not remain standing in pools behind the ridges.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the ruler's viewing balcony over one of the main court-yards
of the fort.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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A lovely ornate brass or copper door.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the court swimming pool. It has an intersting story to go
with it. Tradition prohibits the women from being seen by men -- but
they still wanted to be able to swim. To accomodate this, there were
rings in the ground and along the walls that allowed a giant canopy to
be raised over the pool, giving the women privacy while they bathed.
Above, in the background, you can see another set of screens which
were used to allow the women, unseen, to view what was happening in
the courtyard, which might have included shows of various sorts.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here is the same swimming pool seen from above... just the view that
would have been prevented by the ladies' tent.
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This particular ornamentation was made from Delft blue porcelain,
which was uniquely amusing to the Dutch members of our tour group.
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The greenish colored screens (bamboo?) in the arches were apparently
used to provide privacy for the emperor when he viewed the events in
the courtyard. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The ceilings here were ornately painted... and part of the
paint was actual gold. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Picture of the emperor's throne. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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More of the ornate gilded ceilings. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is a solid silver door that once adorned the palace.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Of course, if you're going to have a solid silver door these days, you
have to have something secure to put it in. This seems ironic
somehow. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Many of the other doors were just as elaborate and beautiful.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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The detailed inlay work of the floors was equally beautiful.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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And even when not gilded, one can't forget the ceilings! Note the
detailed border of painted scenery. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here, I am trying to capture both the colors of the wall and the
lovely peacock-shaped sitar (or related instrument) in the glass case
below.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even in places that were not technically armories, there were
often antique swords, scabbards, shields, and so forth on display.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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There were a large number of detailed laquer-painted doors and
windows, each with a unique design and artistry.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This colorful piece was actually a wall which contained a long brass
strip across the middle. In the middle of the brass strip, a very
fine cut allowed water to be sprayed through and come out as a mist,
used for cooling and also (if I correctly understood our tour guide)
as "special effects" for productions that were done within the
adjacent courtyard.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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If the Greeks have their Ionic and Doric columns, are these perhaps
"Elephantic", or maybe "Elephantine"? The theme of elephants at the
top of columns, holding up the ceiling, was certainly quite common.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another collection of swords on display. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can get some sense of the quality of light that comes through
one of the carved screens, as well as seeing the ornate geometries of
the screen itself.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This is the only authentic "bed of nails" I saw in India. It looks
extremely uncomfortable.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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It's impossible for a picture to give a good sense of how very high we
were, at the top of the fort, but this is an attempt. It's also
interesting to see that even the rain downspouts are made of carved
sandstone. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even if you can't judge how high we are, you have to admit that it
gives you an expansive view of the surrounding land. Keeping in mind,
of course, that the crenelated wall in the far background is the
opposite wall of the fort, and all the manicured grounds in the middle
are within the fort!
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another view of the fort grounds, continuing to the right of the
previous photo.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another view of the fort grounds, continuing still further to the
right of the previous photo, and showing what struck me as an
interesting building and pool. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Even within the part of the fort we visited, sone sections seemed to
continue on as far as the eye could see.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This odd little splash of color, one of the highest parts of the fort,
turned out to be a small temple, but we wouldn't get to it for some
time.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This was a sort of rocking chair or swing for the emperor. I suspect
it is gold plated, though I don't know that for sure.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Notice the small figures going up the sides of the frame. These are
connected to the pivot in such a way that they dance as the seat
swings back and forth.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This struck me as a particularly nice "screen," because of the
sunlight shining through the stained glass. (Most screens were open,
and had no glass at all.) You can also see the gardens far below
through the open center.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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It seemed like every wall had its own unique and beautiful
ornamentation -- carving, inlay, painting...
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Guido, Madeleine, and Alex enjoying a break inside the Junagarh Fort
in Bikaner.
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At this point, we're up three or four stories above the main
courtyard, and this light-colored tower rises still higher. Can you
imagine being the crew who had to do the external mural paintings
three hundred years ago?
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another high tower at the top of Junagarh Fort. One would have quite
a commanding view of the countryside from here!
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This provides a bit of perspective on the size of the fort, and also
nicely shows off the gardens below.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can see a bit more of the inside of the fort from a similar
perspective.
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This was about the highest part of the fort that we visited. This
room had more colorful stained-glass screens, in addition to a
probably-not-period bed and an inexplicable ceiling decoration.
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Here's a better shot of the ceiling and the afore-mentioned decoration.
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We couldn't quite agree on whether the screen here was to keep pigeons
from landing in the courtyard below, or to act as some sort of safety
device. Given the relative precautions I later saw with animals and
humans, I'm now leaning toward the pigeon explanation.
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Mom and Guido on top of Junagarh Fort, with a view out over Bikaner.
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One of the interior courtyards in Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Another decoratively painted wall, but note the embedded mirrors.
These were often installed to reflect the light of the candles or
lamps to make the whole room brighter.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I thought this was a particularly nicely painted ceiling.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here you can see the entire ceiling, which unfortunately I couldn't
capture in the straight-on shot. There are more built-in mirrors
reflecting off the far back wall.
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Here's a nice collection of spears in the armory. Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Most of these (besides the one tomahawk-like weapon) are Katar
dagger blades. Here and there, one would find a dagger that
looked similar to these, but with an internal mechanical apparatus
that would cause the blade to spring apart along the middle when the
two bars of the handle were squeezed together. (I don't think there
are any in this collection.) I was told the basic move was stab,
squeeze, twist. I leave further details (entrails?) to your
imagination.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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These swords don't look like they need to spring apart to do plenty of damage.
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I was quite fond of how these shields, already quite appealing in
their individual decoration, were artistically arranged on the wall.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Likewise, here is a mandala of daggers and (apparently) powder horns.
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I don't think these fans were quite original equipment in the
Fort, but they looks like they could be pretty close.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I'm sure the guide had just told us something interesting about the
architecture of the ceiling. Let this picture serve as an explanation
for why I'm not including every photo I took...
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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I suspect it was something about the confluence of different
architectural styles.
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This whole throne is carved out of sandalwood for the emperor.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Bows and arrows and crossbow bolts, oh my! (Does anyone actually ever
get shot at with fleur-de-lis and crescent-moon shaped arrows???)
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Here were swords of every shape I could imagine, and at least one I
couldn't. I've heard of two handed swords before, but never one where
the hands needed to be on two different soldiers.
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Here is another mandala -- shield and Katar daggers. I believe
this armory had by far the most creative displays of weaponry that we
saw in India.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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This armory also had types of weapons I didn't see anywhere else in
India, such as these maces.
Junagarh Fort, Bikaner.
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Suit of chain mail in the Junagarth Fort museum.
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Other armor parts including bracers, chest plate, and helmet from 16th
century (?) Indian armor.
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An older an more ornamental suit of armor. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Indian military dress uniforms from ~late 19th century. Junagarth Fort
museum.
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A maharaja's fancy carved chair. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Caricature of the participants in the 1930-31 Indian Round-Table
Conference. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Life-sized, realistic looking leopard statues, and a decorated throne.
Junagarth Fort museum.
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One of a very small number of remaining World War One Sopwith Camel
airplanes (think Snoopy and the Red Baron). The Junagarth Fort museum
says there are only two, but the web estimates more like seven.
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A highly decorated palanquin. Junagarth Fort museum.
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A side view of the Sopwith Camel. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Another palanquin, this one behind bars because it is painted with
real gold. Junagarth Fort museum.
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Solid silver (?) ornamentation on one of the palanquins.
Junagarth Fort museum.
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Solid silver (?) statue in Junagarth Fort museum. With the patina and
the lighting, it looks more like jade, but the little signs assured me
it was in fact silver.
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While we were sitting down to lunch in the outdoor restaurant at
Junagarth Fort museum, we noticed a rather striking bird of prey
above. There was also a cat prowling around below, and I'm not sure
which one was planning on having the other for lunch.
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A different outlook for our bird of prey. Restaurant at Junagarth Fort museum.
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A closer view of auto-rickshaw, also known as a took-took or Indian
helicopter. This one, in particular, belonged to the
driver/tour-guide who took us all around Bikaner the afternoon of Jan
28th.
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This was one of the first of many Havelis that we saw --
this one on some side street in Bikaner that we visited as part of a
fast-paced, full afternoon auto-rickshaw tour. The haveli is a
particular style of residence built for well-to-do families, and
often characterized by finely detailed sandstone carving as seen here.
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More Haveli carving details. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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This is another haveli just around the corner from the first.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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In some places, including Bikaner, the elegant havelis were in
neighborhoods that otherwise looked rather unkempt... or in this case,
nearly uninhabited.
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Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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In towns, one sometimes just couldn't find an angle to get a picture
without capturing all the power lines overhead. But then, they may be
interesting in and of themselves.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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It turned out that one of the attractions our tour guides thought
particularly fine was the old automobile museum. It was an
interesting sight (mom being particularly fond of the snake
crawing up the fender), but not necessarily what I came to India to
see.
However, it was rather entertaining that our tour guide (completely
unaffiliated with the museum) tried to convince us to get into the car
so he could take our picture in it. No "do not touch" signs here,
apparently.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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We stopped for a short while at another hotel, which, like ours, was
an old haveli that had been cleaned and polished and electrified.
Unlike ours, it was right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of
the town. I'm not sure if these chairs are actually gilded, or
just look that way.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another view of the "competing" hotel, especially showing off the
marble floor and the ornate carving around the doors. Cora and
Caroline are in the background checking out the courtyard.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Of course, then I had to take a picture of the courtyard myself.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another, brighter hallway. I thought the carved eagle was
particularly nice. Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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Dog on cow. Doggone cow? Something like that. They both wander the
streets, but more than once we saw them teaming up in this fashion.
Luckily for the dogs, we never saw the converse. Bikaner
auto-rickshaw tour.
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Being a fan of hot peppers, I had to get a picture of these giant bags
of delicious pain. Shops like this, with phenomenal quantities of
bulk spices, were actually quite common.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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The Bhandashah Jain Temple in Bikaner is its oldest building or
monument. This is especially interesting because we were told that
the foundations were laid using butter rather than water in the making
of the concrete. The place apparently oozes when it gets hot out, but
obviously this doesn't impact its structural integrity.
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This is a photo out over the city of Bikaner from the Jain Temple.
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My parents are entering the Jain Temple. The colors are striking; I'm
not certain whether they are inlay or painted. Bikaner.
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... but the outside decorations are nothing next to the ones inside!
Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Although we saw many temples (Jain, Hindu, and others), these are
still particularly striking examples of the full-color statuary. Jain
Temple, Bikaner.
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I particularly liked this pattern in the marble floor of the Jain
Temple in Bikaner.
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The intricacies of some of the scenes were quite amazing. I wish now
that I cuold have had the time to find out the story behind each one.
Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Other parts of the temple were as striking in their monochrome
intricacies. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Most Jain Temples are filled with statues, which as far as I can tell
are representations of the Tirthankaras or
Jivas. Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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View over Bikaner from the Jain Temple.
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Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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View over Bikaner from the Jain Temple. Apparently one of the
buildings we are looking at is a cow hospital, but don't ask me which
one!
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This young man was our tour guide -- not only did he drive us around
the whole town in his took-took, but he went into the temple and other
places with us to explain the history and show us points of particular
interest.
Jain Temple, Bikaner.
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Fresh vegetables in the marketplace. We believe the long skinny
vegetables front and center are carrots -- pink carrots. Bikaner
auto-rickshaw tour.
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Another image of the marketplace, showing off peppers ("mirchi"),
cauliflower ("gobi"), and carrots ("gajar") in the foreground.
Bikaner auto-rickshaw tour.
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On the street in Bikaner, returning to our hotel. Auto-rickshaw tour.
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This was part of a series of attempts to capture a bat flying around
against the sunset. I never got a great picture of the bat, but the
sky colors are great! Back at our hotel, Bhairon Vilas, in Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.
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Sunset at Hotel Bhairon Vilas, Bikaner.