Thar Desert and Jaisalmer
To view a larger image, select one of the sizes beside the image thumbnail.
640
full
The next morning (2006-01-29) we got onto our bus again and headed off
for Jaisalmer, through the Thar Desert.
640
full
Sometimes it's hard to believe how much they manage to pack into their
vehicles. This camel-cart is more of an overstuffed camel-sack on
wheels. Apparently used airplane wheels are commonly appropriated for
camel carts because they need to be replaced often for safety reasons,
and the wide tires work admirably in the desert sands. On the road to
Jaisalmer.
640
full
Just driving down the road, one would continually see temples and
other examples of architecture which would seem so unusual that they
merited a photo... unusual, of course, only until the next one
appeared a few minutes later! On the road to Jaisalmer.
640
full
At this point, it was becoming clear that we really were in the
desert. In many places, people had built tiny brick fortresses around
trees to ensure that they wouldn't be mowed down by hungry animals
wandering through. Thar Desert.
640
full
Thar Desert. Lots of it.
640
full
Occasionally, small herds of animals would manage to eke out a meager
existence off the scrubby bushes. These may actually have been
someone's flock, it's hard to tell. Thar Desert, between Bikaner and
Jaisalmer.
640
full
This isn't the most extreme example of a highly-decorated
Indian truck, but it's pretty typical... and pretty interesting. Thar
Desert, between Bikaner and Jaisalmer.
640
full
In the midst of the Thar Desert, we stopped at an oasis of sorts.
This particular one was known for its cranes (the bird kind) rather
than for its vegetation.
640
full
After several attempts, I finally managed a photo of some on the
ground, some flying, and no other photographers shoulders in the way!
Oasis in the Thar Desert.
640
full
Birds and a water house, at an oasis in the Thar Desert.
640
full
A little bit of color -- a temple near the oasis, with birds flying
overhead. Thar Desert. (5MP, 1.6MB)
640
full
Part of the village near the oasis in the Thar Desert.
640
full
This wasn't our first introduction to "street urchins"... but it may
have been our first introduction to "desert urchins." Oasis in the
Thar Desert.
640
full
Cora is one of the first of our tour members to discover the effects
of giving something to one child: that the remainder of the village
will surround you in seconds. (And, to her credit, her generosity
rarely flagged or hid behind cynicism or exhaustion.) Oasis in the
Thar Desert.
640
full
Finally, here is the birds-in-flight picture I'd been trying to take
for twenty minutes. Oasis in the Thar Desert. (5MP, 1.6MB)
640
full
Here is a small group of cranes, in flight, against the sky.
Oasis in the Thar Desert. (5MP, 1.3MB)
640
full
The colors of these mustard fields, which we saw all over the place,
were just spectacular. The very same green and yellow-gold
combination was also a popular one for saris. On the road to
Jaisalmer.
640
full
This looks like some sort of fortress, but it's actually a modern
rest-stop on the road to Jaisalmer.
640
full
We sat outside at long tables under the (hot) winter sun, sipping
lassis and such. On the road to Jaisalmer.
640
full
We stopped for some photos of these buildings, though I don't know if
we knew what exactly they were. Outside Jaisalmer.
640
full
More photos of buildings, including a photo of my dad as the
photographer. Outside Jaisalmer.
640
full
Finally, after many hours on the road, Jaisalmer "emerged from the
desert like a mirage." (Okay, that's a quote from the tour brochure.)
It was pretty cool, though.
640
full
Approaching our hotel, one started to see a fair amount of vegetation,
at last. Jaisalmer.
640
full
One view of the Jaisalmer fort, as we arrived in town.
640
full
The fort here is remarkably large, with dozens of streets and alleys
inside. Unlike many of the other "tourist" forts, a substantial part
of the Jaisalmer population seems to live inside the fort's walls.
640
full
Our hotel (Hotel Heritage Inn) in Jaisalmer.
640
full
Another view of the fort, from the roof of our hotel in Jaisalmer.
640
full
Pretty much as soon as we had dropped our stuff in our hotel, my
parents and I struck off for the town, and met many friendly patrons
absolutely certain we needed their wares. Jaisalmer.
640
full
Jaisalmer is also known for its havelis made from yellow sandstone.
640
full
Another shot of havelis in Jaisalmer.
640
full
It took me lots of tries, but I finally got a night shot of the fort
from the Trio restaurant. We very much enjoyed this place, with its
Kher Sangri on the menu (see the caption for
photo
1079 discussing the tree this dish comes from). There were live
musicans (who played an impromptu ode to my mother after she took
their picture, the entire lyrics of which were, "Lefty Lefty Lefty
Lefty", accompanied on the harmonium.) There was a cute girl at the
money-exchange shop across the street. And, there was this great view
of the city. Jaisalmer.
640
full
The next morning (2006-01-30) we started the day with a trip to the
fort to see all of the sights it had to offer. This included some
really amazing tapestries and other art. Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Some parts of the fort were fort-like in the usual ways. Jaisalmer
Fort.
640
full
Other parts seemed much more lived in, likely a result of the fact
that a good fraction of the town actually did live there. Jaisalmer
Fort.
640
full
In fact, there were several temples within the fortress walls. I
think this is one of them, although it may be just a haveli.
Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
We received high recommendations for the 8th of July restaurant, but
opted out, so we can't vouch for it. Apparently it specializes in
Australian cuisine, and we were looking for more local fare.
Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Unfortunately for us and for the planet, but perhaps fortunately for
some of India's non-human residents, there was a lot of litter. I
suspect this dog was trying to find something to eat in an among it.
Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
At one point, a young gentleman starting some kind of tourist business
led us up to a very nice view out over the city, from the roof of his
home. Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Tirthankara statue from the Jain temple inside Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Tirthankara statue from the Jain temple inside Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Some other carvings from the Jain temple inside Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
A view of the balustrade and supporting columns from one of the higher
floors in the Jain temple. Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
A view of the domed ceiling of the Jain temple from one of the
floors below. Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
An ornate wall of Tirthankara images from the Jain temple in Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
This photo from the Jain temple gives a better sense of the scope and
intricacy of the carvings. This was taken from a staircase at the
beginning of a hallway going 3/4 around the center. If I remember
correctly, the ceiling was actually open to let sunlight in. (What
happens when it rains seemed an interesting question at the time...)
Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Tirthankara statue (this one apparently in yellow sandstone or marble)
from the Jain temple inside Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Here is an even clearer view of the open ceiling letting the sun in.
Jain Temple, Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
Here we are returning up the parallel hallway on the other side. Gé
and Loes are talking with our tour guide. Often, it was hard to tell
who was an "official" tour guide and who was just there to make a
quick couple of rupees. Jain Temple, Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
This was a different sort of statue than we had seen elsewhere in the
temple. Jain Temple, Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full
I believe this is sort of the "main" worship area in the Jain Temple.
I also took the photo to show the posted (but largely ignored) tipping
policy: "Please do not give tips to holy men."
Jaisalmer Fort.
640
full